| By Annie Copps
Keeping step with Rachael Ray’s career is really
quite dizzying. There are the four Food Network
cooking shows she hosts, the 11 cookbooks she’s
written, her new cooking and lifestyle magazine, the
touring that goes with promoting all those ventures,
and—oh, yes—she was just married last fall (at a
castle in Italy no less).
Most of us would need a nap just thinking about
her schedule, let alone actually following it. But
for the 37-year-old multimedia star, whose
popularity and success stem from her
self-deprecating humor and “anti–Martha” approach,
her 24/7 pace may be the only way to release all the
personality and energy cooped up in her tiny (5'3")
frame. Good thing she can keep up that pace; there
are a lot of people banking that her cheery approach
to quick and simple cooking will continue to be
embraced and followed.
For some, watching chefs compete to create the
most over-the-top meal, using exotic ingredients and
super-modern gadgets is a good form of culinary
voyeurism, but Ray and a slew of other good-looking,
talented cooking personalities are the new secret
ingredients to the sustained popularity of cooking
shows.
“Absolutely, they are young and they are good
looking,” says Kathleen Finch, senior vice president
of prime-time programming for Food Network. “But
they are also talented.” Case in point: Tyler
Florence, host of How to Boil Water, is certainly
easy on the eyes, but, Finch is quick to point out,
“he is a very accomplished chef, really well trained
and a good teacher. He has the skill set, and he is
able to break down his knowledge in a way that is
not intimidating, but inviting.” So when Florence
rolls up his sleeves and mushes ground beef with his
hands, it helps viewers to think about getting their
own hands into a bowl.
Florence joins a list of other noted celeb chefs—
and pretty faces—including barbecue wizard Bobby
Flay, Date Plate host Kelly Deadmon, Naked Chef
Jamie Oliver and the queen of shortcuts, Sandra Lee.
And this culinary cuteness is a recipe that seems
to be working: Food Network ranks first among
ad-supported cable networks in year-to-year
subscriber growth, reaching 87 million U.S.
households—up from 27 million in 1997.
The Ray way
Emeril Lagasse—arguably Food Network’s most
famous face—put “bam” and “kick it up a notch” into
our vernacular. But for Food Network’s kitchen
pixie, Rachael Ray, it’s a slew of Rachael-isms
that inspire confidence (and lightheartedness) while
cooking. They range from “I’m just gonna run my
knife right through it…” as she breaks down an onion
or a head of cabbage (rather than being a stickler
for professional kitchen knife skills) to “delish!”
when she checks the progress of the beans she is
cooking. And, of course, “EVOO,” her acronym for
extra-virgin olive oil, takes the highfalutin’ edge
off an ingredient that was once reserved for the
pantries of well-heeled gourmands. Her form of
comfort food has come at a time when viewers are
craving comfort as much as they crave chocolate.
When times are tough, the familiarity of the kitchen
reminds us of simpler, more peaceful times. In other
words, Ray’s “evoo” equals a form of escapism that
makes viewers comfortable in their kitchens—so
comfortable they just might use them to cook.
To meet that end, Ray has just about every facet
well covered. Food Network offers not one, not two
but four daytime and prime-time shows hosted by her,
including 30-Minute Meals, Inside Dish with Rachael
Ray, $40 a Day and her latest, Rachael Ray’s Tasty
Travels, which debuted last summer.
She has a line of kitchen appliances (Salton) and
cookware (Anolon) on the market, and to bring her
message home literally, Ray’s volume of work to date
easily fills an entire shelf. Three cookbooks, all
published by Clarkson Potter, hit the market in 2004
alone—$40 a Day: Best Eats in Town, Cooking Rocks!
Rachael Ray’s 30-Minute Meals for Kids, and
Cooking
’Round the Clock: Rachael Ray’s 30-Minute Meals; and
this past fall her eleventh book, 365 No Repeats: A
Year of Deliciously Different Dinners.
It’s not just Ray’s cookbooks that have been
selling like hotcakes. Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot
Contessa, star of Food Network’s most popular
program, has four bestselling cookbooks to her name.
According to Simba Information’s Business of
Consumer Book Publishing 2005, the projected market
for cookbooks last year was $493.9 million, a 5.1
percent increase over 2004 and a 19.4 percent
increase over 2001. Bowker’s Books In Print reports
that the number of new cookbook titles and editions
in 2004 was 2,096, a 26 percent increase over 2000
and a 40 percent increase over 1995.
Too many cooks in the kitchen?
Ray’s boldest move to date may be what kicks her
up a notch from cable television cooking goddess to
the pantheon where Martha Stewart and Oprah Winfrey
reside: her role as editor-in-chief at Every Day
with Rachael Ray, a food, lifestyle, travel and
entertaining magazine.
The magazine debuted in November, and demand was
so high that publishers went back on press to print
an additional 135,000 copies. There’s no doubt that
there’s a market for epicurean magazines—Cooking
Light, with a 1.6 million circulation, and Bon
Appétit, with 1.2 million, lead in this category,
while Food & Wine and Gourmet both exceed 900,000,
according to the Audit Bureau of Circulation. But
Ray has a way to go to catch Martha Stewart Living,
which is one of the top 40 magazines by circulation,
with 1.9 million total paid copies per issue.
While Ray’s magazine is still being put to the
taste test, Food Network’s daily menu of cooking
shows aimed at its 25-to-54-year-old target audience
is ever-expanding. “Foodwise, they want simple,
easy, quick and accessible—not 14 courses,” Finch
explains. “They want to be able to have wonderful
food on Tuesday night after their kid’s soccer game
or have guests over and not be stuck in the kitchen
all night.”
Enter Giada De Laurentiis, host of Everyday
Italian. She too is stunning, and like the rest of
the newcomers in their televised kitchens, she knows
her stuff. Years of owning GDL Foods, a Los
Angeles–based catering business, gives her the
authority and the credibility to tell you what
guests are going to respond to.
Continuing in the easy (and cheap) mode, when
Food Network heard of Yale student Dave Lieberman’s
success with getting his fellow classmates to cook
via a cable access cooking show, they knew “he was a
gigantic talent.” Lieberman’s hit show,
Good Deal
with Dave Lieberman, promotes quality ingredients at
reasonable prices. “He really brings the message of
affordability to our viewers. For him, it’s about
being fresh from college and starting out, but that
translates to affordable, no matter who you are,”
Finch says.
Home on the Range
But in the end, it’s still Ray who has the most
airtime.
It boils down to conviction—her own innate
trust in what she is doing and her talent to pass it
on to viewers. It’s not uncommon for Ray to be
cooking away on her 30-Minute Meals program and to
tell viewers that it is OK not to measure an
ingredient, but to instead “just eyeball it.” Or she
might stick a spoon into a sauce, taste it and
exclaim with a genuine, or seemingly genuine,
response, “This is awesome!” It’s OK to like the way
your own food tastes and to praise yourself for
doing a good job.
She cooks with everyday ingredients that we are
comfortable asking for at the meat counter or
finding on aisle 4. Ray is bringing a new generation
of people into the kitchen for the first time, and
encouraging those who have strayed from their ovens
to head back to the range by making it not just
doable, but—because in her world, cooking is fun and
not a monumental investment of time or money—just
what we were missing.
Hundreds of cookbooks are written every year, and
the popularity of cooking shows seems endless, but
Ray and her colleagues have our attention because
the dishes they demonstrate are within reach of both
our culinary and monetary abilities. And that’s just
delish!
Out of the Kitchen and onto the Couch
When you’re hand-picked by Oprah to host your own
talk show, that’s a sure sign of success, right?
Viewing audiences will get the chance to decide for
themselves next fall, when Rachael Ray begins
hosting a daily one-hour talk show. King World
Productions inked the deal with Ray in association
with Oprah’s Harpo Productions and Scripps Networks.
“Rachael Ray is a terrific talent whose
positive energy, infectious smile and dynamic
personality jump right off the television screen,”
remarked King World Productions CEO Roger King when
the deal was announced. “She’s already made a mark
for herself with a legion of fans, and her star is
going to keep rising for many years to come.”
The show will showcase Ray’s laid-back, relatable
personality. “People know me for my love of food,
but I have so much more I want to share,” Ray told
PRNewswire. “Our show’s going to be all about taking
a bigger bite out of life. I want people to see
themselves in this show, because life is full of
messes and successes, and getting there is half the
fun.”
What’s Cooking on Food Network?
With nearly 700,000 viewers tuning in every day
during prime time, Food Network is working hard to
attract the coveted 25-to-54-year-old demographic.
Here are its five top-rated programs:
1. Barefoot Contessa, Ina Garten
2. 30-Minute Meals, Rachael Ray
3. Easy Entertaining with Michael Chiarello
4. Semi-Homemade Cooking with Sandra Lee
5. Paula’s Home Cooking, Paula Deen
Get Cookin’
If you’re ready to roll up your sleeves and create your own culinary
masterpiece, check out these sites for free recipes:
foodnetwork.com
meals.com
bhg.com/food
epicurious.com
recipelink.com
allrecipes.com
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